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Hand and Machine

The argument that shaped nineteenth-century pattern: should cloth be printed by hand or by machine? William Morris answered with discharge-printed cotton and block-cut repeats; his successors answered with roller-printed silks. The pieces here carry the argument to 1959, ending with American artist-designed silks and Frank Lloyd Wright’s silkscreened wallpapers, which took the machine’s side without apology.

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One of Morris’s earliest printed designs, from 1875: a flat, symmetrical tulip repeat drawn for block printing. Its geometry is deliberately of the hand, an argument against the machine’s illusion of shading.

CC0 · Public domain · 1875

Tulip

One of Morris’s earliest printed designs, from 1875: a flat, symmetrical tulip repeat drawn for block printing. Its geometry is deliberately of the hand, an argument against the machine’s illusion of shading.

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Creator / date
William Morris (British, 1834–1896) · 1875
Source credit
Gift of Mrs. Philip White. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Open Access.
Rights designation
CC0 · Public domain ↗
Usage notes
Released by the Cleveland Museum of Art under CC0 1.0. Credit to the museum is encouraged; CC0 does not imply endorsement.
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The thrushes from the garden at Kelmscott, printed by the discharge method at Merton Abbey. Morris is said to have worked out the process himself after watching the indigo dyed cloth give up its colour, and the birds make the whole argument for him.

CC0 · Public domain · c. 1936 (design 1883)

Strawberry Thief

The thrushes from the garden at Kelmscott, printed by the discharge method at Merton Abbey. Morris is said to have worked out the process himself after watching the indigo dyed cloth give up its colour, and the birds make the whole argument for him.

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Creator / date
William Morris (British, 1834–1896) · c. 1936 (design 1883)
Source credit
Gift of Mrs. Henry Chisholm. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Open Access.
Rights designation
CC0 · Public domain ↗
Usage notes
Released by the Cleveland Museum of Art under CC0 1.0. Credit to the museum is encouraged; CC0 does not imply endorsement.
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Marigold began as a wallpaper, one of Morris’s first designs for printing on fabric. It is the same repeat in two materials, and a reminder that Morris & Co. sold whole rooms rather than single cloths.

CC0 · Public domain · 20th century

Marigold

Marigold began as a wallpaper, one of Morris’s first designs for printing on fabric. It is the same repeat in two materials, and a reminder that Morris & Co. sold whole rooms rather than single cloths.

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Creator / date
William Morris (British, 1834–1896) · 20th century
Source credit
Gift of Mrs. Henry Chisholm. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Open Access.
Rights designation
CC0 · Public domain ↗
Usage notes
Released by the Cleveland Museum of Art under CC0 1.0. Credit to the museum is encouraged; CC0 does not imply endorsement.
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Probably designed for Morris & Co. by Kate Faulkner, sister of Morris’s early partner Charles. The near-square repeat is small and dense, and it is one of the firm’s steadiest sellers for decades.

CC0 · Public domain · 1920

Peony

Probably designed for Morris & Co. by Kate Faulkner, sister of Morris’s early partner Charles. The near-square repeat is small and dense, and it is one of the firm’s steadiest sellers for decades.

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Creator / date
Kate Faulkner for Morris & Co. (British, 1841–1898) · 1920
Source credit
Gift of Mrs. Henry Chisholm. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Open Access.
Rights designation
CC0 · Public domain ↗
Usage notes
Released by the Cleveland Museum of Art under CC0 1.0. Credit to the museum is encouraged; CC0 does not imply endorsement.
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A roller-printed silk of 1894, where the machinery is used without apology for flowing, watery movement. The Arts and Crafts objection to the machine did not survive contact with the silk market.

CC0 · Public domain · 1894

Cloth with Floral Sea Design

A roller-printed silk of 1894, where the machinery is used without apology for flowing, watery movement. The Arts and Crafts objection to the machine did not survive contact with the silk market.

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Creator / date
England, maker unknown · 1894
Source credit
Gift of Henry Hunt Clark. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Open Access.
Rights designation
CC0 · Public domain ↗
Usage notes
Released by the Cleveland Museum of Art under CC0 1.0. Credit to the museum is encouraged; CC0 does not imply endorsement.
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Roller-printed silk from 1890 with a tulip derived from Morris but flattened further, the ornament simplified for a cheaper cloth.

CC0 · Public domain · 1890

Fragment with Tulip and Flower Design

Roller-printed silk from 1890 with a tulip derived from Morris but flattened further, the ornament simplified for a cheaper cloth.

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Creator / date
England, maker unknown · 1890
Source credit
Gift of Henry Hunt Clark. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Open Access.
Rights designation
CC0 · Public domain ↗
Usage notes
Released by the Cleveland Museum of Art under CC0 1.0. Credit to the museum is encouraged; CC0 does not imply endorsement.
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Named for the Petworth design, an intricate repeat printed on silk at the end of the century. The density suggests a design drawn for hand printing and then cut for the roller.

CC0 · Public domain · 1890

Fragment with “Petworth” Design

Named for the Petworth design, an intricate repeat printed on silk at the end of the century. The density suggests a design drawn for hand printing and then cut for the roller.

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Creator / date
England, maker unknown · 1890
Source credit
Gift of Henry Hunt Clark. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Open Access.
Rights designation
CC0 · Public domain ↗
Usage notes
Released by the Cleveland Museum of Art under CC0 1.0. Credit to the museum is encouraged; CC0 does not imply endorsement.
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French roller-printed silk from the last decades of the century, where the drawing is looser and the colour freer than the English work. France kept the painter’s hand in its mechanised prints.

CC0 · Public domain · late 1800s

Printed Silk with Flower Design

French roller-printed silk from the last decades of the century, where the drawing is looser and the colour freer than the English work. France kept the painter’s hand in its mechanised prints.

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Creator / date
France, maker unknown · late 1800s
Source credit
Gift of George W. Bierce. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Open Access.
Rights designation
CC0 · Public domain ↗
Usage notes
Released by the Cleveland Museum of Art under CC0 1.0. Credit to the museum is encouraged; CC0 does not imply endorsement.
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The words Je T’aime in red and blue on white, drawn as abstract letterforms rather than as a message. Part of Stehli’s series of artist-designed silks, it treats type as pattern, twenty years before mid-century graphic design claimed the idea.

CC0 · Public domain · 1927

Je T’aime (No. 632)

The words Je T’aime in red and blue on white, drawn as abstract letterforms rather than as a message. Part of Stehli’s series of artist-designed silks, it treats type as pattern, twenty years before mid-century graphic design claimed the idea.

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Creator / date
Kneeland (Ruzzie) Green for Stehli Silks Corporation (American) · 1927
Source credit
Gift of the Stehli Silks Corporation. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Open Access.
Rights designation
CC0 · Public domain ↗
Usage notes
Released by the Cleveland Museum of Art under CC0 1.0. Credit to the museum is encouraged; CC0 does not imply endorsement.
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Clayton Knight’s April, printed by roller on silk in 1927. A narrative illustration taken straight onto cloth, made possible by the same process that once printed herons and pheasants.

CC0 · Public domain · 1927

April (No. 706)

Clayton Knight’s April, printed by roller on silk in 1927. A narrative illustration taken straight onto cloth, made possible by the same process that once printed herons and pheasants.

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Creator / date
Clayton Knight for Stehli Silks Corporation (American) · 1927
Source credit
Gift of the Stehli Silks Corporation. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Open Access.
Rights designation
CC0 · Public domain ↗
Usage notes
Released by the Cleveland Museum of Art under CC0 1.0. Credit to the museum is encouraged; CC0 does not imply endorsement.
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Frank Lloyd Wright’s geometric wallpaper for Schumacher, silkscreened on paper in the 1950s. Straight lines and flat colour, the opposite of the chintz tradition, from a designer who refused ornament as illustration.

CC0 · Public domain · before 1959

Design 103

Frank Lloyd Wright’s geometric wallpaper for Schumacher, silkscreened on paper in the 1950s. Straight lines and flat colour, the opposite of the chintz tradition, from a designer who refused ornament as illustration.

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Creator / date
Frank Lloyd Wright for F. Schumacher and Co. (American) · before 1959
Source credit
Gift of F. Schumacher and Co.. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Open Access.
Rights designation
CC0 · Public domain ↗
Usage notes
Released by the Cleveland Museum of Art under CC0 1.0. Credit to the museum is encouraged; CC0 does not imply endorsement.
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The same Wright collection as Design 705, with its units rotated into a different rhythm. Silkscreen on wallpaper lets the repeat be printed with the precision of a drawing.

CC0 · Public domain · before 1959

Design 706

The same Wright collection as Design 705, with its units rotated into a different rhythm. Silkscreen on wallpaper lets the repeat be printed with the precision of a drawing.

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Creator / date
Frank Lloyd Wright for F. Schumacher and Co. (American) · before 1959
Source credit
Gift of F. Schumacher and Co.. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Open Access.
Rights designation
CC0 · Public domain ↗
Usage notes
Released by the Cleveland Museum of Art under CC0 1.0. Credit to the museum is encouraged; CC0 does not imply endorsement.
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Wright’s interlocking geometry, scaled for a wall rather than a window. The wallpaper was part of his attempt to control an interior down to its surface pattern.

CC0 · Public domain · before 1959

Design 705

Wright’s interlocking geometry, scaled for a wall rather than a window. The wallpaper was part of his attempt to control an interior down to its surface pattern.

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Creator / date
Frank Lloyd Wright for F. Schumacher and Co. (American) · before 1959
Source credit
The Harold T. Clark Educational Extension Fund. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Open Access.
Rights designation
CC0 · Public domain ↗
Usage notes
Released by the Cleveland Museum of Art under CC0 1.0. Credit to the museum is encouraged; CC0 does not imply endorsement.
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A second impression of Design 705, catalogued separately by the museum. Colour and registration differ slightly, which is how a screen-printed run behaves across a length.

CC0 · Public domain · before 1959

Design 705

A second impression of Design 705, catalogued separately by the museum. Colour and registration differ slightly, which is how a screen-printed run behaves across a length.

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Creator / date
Frank Lloyd Wright for F. Schumacher and Co. (American) · before 1959
Source credit
Gift of F. Schumacher and Co.. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Open Access.
Rights designation
CC0 · Public domain ↗
Usage notes
Released by the Cleveland Museum of Art under CC0 1.0. Credit to the museum is encouraged; CC0 does not imply endorsement.
Original file
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